Pickleball court dimensions and lines
The official 20 by 44 foot court, the 7-foot non-volley zone, net heights, line rules, and the playing area USA Pickleball recommends around each court.
By Local Pickleball Courts editors · Published
Every regulation pickleball court has the same footprint, whether it is a championship court or a set of lines taped on a gym floor. The measurements below come from the USA Pickleball Official Rulebook (2026 edition), which sets the court and equipment standards used for sanctioned play in the United States. Rule numbers are given so you can check the source yourself.
The court at a glance
| Element | Measurement | Rule |
|---|---|---|
| Court (singles and doubles) | 20 ft × 44 ft (6.10 m × 13.41 m) | 3.A.1 |
| Non-volley zone, each side | 7 ft × 20 ft (2.13 m × 6.10 m) | 3.A.4.c |
| Service court | 10 ft × 15 ft (derived from the lines) | 3.A.4.d, 3.A.4.f |
| Line width | 2 in (5.08 cm) | 3.A.4.e |
| Net height at the sidelines | 36 in ± ¼ in (91.44 cm) | 3.B.6 |
| Net height at the center | 34 in ± ¼ in (86.36 cm) | 3.B.7 |
| Distance between net posts (inside to inside) | 22 ft ± 1 in (6.71 m) | 3.B.2 |
| Minimum net length | 21 ft 9 in (6.63 m) | 3.B.3 |
| Minimum playing surface | 30 ft × 60 ft (9.14 m × 18.29 m) | 3.A.3 |
| Recommended surface, new construction and tournaments | 34 ft × 64 ft (10.36 m × 19.5 m) | 3.A.3 |
| Recommended surface, stadium court | 50 ft × 80 ft (15.24 m × 24.38 m) | 3.A.3 |
Court size
The court is a rectangle 20 feet wide and 44 feet long, and the same court is used for singles and doubles (Rule 3.A.1). That is a key difference from tennis, where singles uses narrower sidelines. Court measurements are taken to the outside edge of the perimeter and non-volley zone lines (Rule 3.A.2), which means the lines themselves are inside the 20-by-44 rectangle.
The lines and what they mark
- Baselines run parallel to the net at each end, and sidelines run the length of the court (Rules 3.A.4.a and 3.A.4.b).
- The non-volley zone, usually called the kitchen, is the 7-by-20-foot area next to the net on each side. Its lines are part of the zone, and the zone is two-dimensional: it does not extend into the air above the court (Rule 3.A.4.c). That last point is why you can volley a ball that is above the kitchen as long as you are not standing in it.
- The centerline runs from the non-volley zone line to the baseline on each side and divides the right and left service courts (Rule 3.A.4.d). Each service court is therefore 10 feet wide and 15 feet deep.
- Line width and color. All lines should be 2 inches wide, the same color, and clearly contrasting with the playing surface (Rule 3.A.4.e).
Lines also decide calls. A ball returned during a rally that lands on any line on the opponent's side is in. A serve is different: it must clear the non-volley zone line, so a serve that lands on the kitchen line is out, while a serve landing on the centerline, sideline, or baseline of the correct service court is in (Rules 8.B and 8.C). Players should only call a ball out when they can see space between the ball and the line (Rule 8.E).
The net
The top of the net must be 36 inches above the playing surface at the sidelines and 34 inches at the center, each with a tolerance of a quarter inch (Rules 3.B.6 and 3.B.7). The dip in the middle is deliberate, and it makes the cross-court dink slightly easier than a shot down the line. A center strap may be used to hold the middle at the right height (Rule 3.B.5).
Net posts should stand 22 feet apart, measured inside to inside, so they sit about a foot outside each sideline (Rule 3.B.2). The net itself should be at least 21 feet 9 inches long and at least 30 inches from bottom edge to top, with a 2-inch white tape binding along the top (Rules 3.B.3 and 3.B.4).
Portable nets drift out of spec quickly. If you play on one, check the center height with a tape measure before the first game, and again if the net gets bumped. A sagging center is the most common problem, and tightening the cable or adjusting the center strap usually fixes it.
Space around the court
The 20-by-44 court is only part of the story. The rulebook sets a minimum playing surface of 30 by 60 feet, which leaves 5 feet beyond each sideline and 8 feet behind each baseline (Rule 3.A.3). For new construction and tournament play it recommends 34 by 64 feet, and for stadium courts 50 by 80 feet. That run-off space is what lets you chase a lob or a wide angle without running into a fence, a wall, or the next court.
Many older and converted courts fall short of the recommendation, especially gym-floor courts and tennis courts with several pickleball courts squeezed in. If the space behind the baseline is tight, play more conservatively on deep balls and agree on how to handle shots that hit a wall or fence. USA Pickleball's construction guidance also recommends a north-south orientation for outdoor courts so that players are not looking straight into a rising or setting sun.
Setting up a temporary court
If you are marking a court on a driveway, tennis court, or gym, measure from the outside edges and use the numbers in the table. Mark the baseline and sidelines first, then the kitchen lines 7 feet from the net line on each side, then the centerlines. Check that the rectangle is square by measuring both diagonals; on a 20-by-44 court they should each be about 48 feet 4 inches. Painter's tape or removable court tape in a contrasting color is easiest to work with.
Find a court that fits
Our listings do not record court measurements, so check a facility page or ask staff if exact dimensions matter to you. Dedicated courts are the most likely to meet the full spec; our guide to dedicated, lined, and shared courts explains the difference. To find courts near you, browse by state or province, or start with the outdoor and indoor court lists.